I came upon
Seeing People Off in a very roundabout way. Last month, I was reading Molly Young's newsletter, "Read Like the Wind" (
I highly recommend this monthly newsletter! Scroll down to the newsletters under Vulture.) and she included a recommendation for a book called
The Hare by Melanie Finn. In her review, she included this tidbit, "It is published by Two Dollar Radio, a small press out of Columbus, Ohio, which I think of as the Barry Bonds of small presses: They hit an astonishing number of home runs." I had never heard of the Two Dollar Radio, so I went over to
their website to see what else they had to offer. I'm always keeping an eye out for authors from countries I haven't read, and I found they published two books by Jana Beňová, one of the most acclaimed writers from Slovakia. I've read a handful of Czech books (most published when it was part of the larger Czechoslovakia), but I'd never read a Slovak book. (Oddly enough, I've actually been to Slovakia, but I've never been to the Czech Republic.) So, in any case, I decided to order
Seeing People Off (and along with it I ordered Melanie Finn's book
The Gloaming because at the time I was making these purchase
The Hare had not yet been published, but I decided to try another book by the same author).
Seeing People Off is a slim book -- 126 pages -- with little in the way of a plot, but it's quite entertaining. It follows four aimless young adults ("The Quartet" -- the book is subtitled, "A Manifest of the Quartet") in Bratislava as they drink too much and eat too little. Their social life centers on a cafe called the Hyena, where they spend much of their days. They take turns getting jobs, and the one who works provides a stipend for the others, who shop and write at the cafe and drink heavily. The book veers off here and there into surreal dream states, or brief glimpses into the past.

Besides the cafe, the other main location in the novel is a large communist-era apartment complex in Petržalka, on the south side of the Danube from the historic center of Bratislava. This is where my having been there actually came in handy: I could picture it. In fact, I have taken pictures of it. Petržalka is on the far side of the bridge in the photo at right. Unsurprisingly, I never visited that part of the city when I was in Bratislava -- it's a dense residential area of large apartment blocks. According to Wikipedia, it's the most densely populated residential district in Central Europe, once known for its high crime rate. This remove from the city's historic center is another of the books themes: seeing the bridge, but never crossing it. One of the most hilarious moments in the book is when one member of the Quartet runs into an acquaintance in central Bratislava who tells her that he's being paid by the government to just walk around and hang out in Bratislava, to encourage tourism, to make it look as if Slovaks walk around and hang out in the old city. After this encounter, she looks around her and can't help wondering if everyone else is getting paid to live the life she's living.
It was a strange book, but I really enjoyed Seeing People Off. I wish I had read it -- or anything about Bratislava at all -- before I went there. I stopped there for a day and a night on my way from Vienna to Budapest, basically because it was right there and it felt like it would have been a shame not to. On arriving, I realized I didn't know the first thing about Bratislava. I had booked a place to stay, but beyond that hadn't really done any research. I also just hadn't really processed ahead of time that I would be going to a place where the language was completely foreign to me. I've studied 3 Romance languages plus German and Shona, and am used to fumbling by, even in languages I don't know, but I was completely unprepared for Slovak. That said, I'm glad I did go. As it happens, Bratislava is also the source of the banner image I use on this blog: It's a photo I took of a mosaic at the Bratislava train station.