A couple weeks before my trip to DC, I was in Detroit for another meeting but I found time one morning to visit the Wright Museum of African American History. Unlike my visit to the NMAAHC, I was well-rested and I think I was the first visitor of the day (it was a weekday and I went right when they opened), so I had entire rooms to myself. I saw two exhibits on my visit the Wright: one about slavery at Monticello and the permanent exhibit called "And Still We Rise," that charts African and African American history from the earliest time until roughly the present. I found myself thinking back to elements both these exhibits while reading Homegoing.
First, the And Still We Rise exhibit. In 1993, I visited Senegal. While there, we went to the House of Slaves, a prison and port on an island off the coast of Dakar from which slave ships left Africa. It's a truly haunting place; one I still remember clearly these 26 years later. In the exhibit at the Wright, they've recreated the holding cells of an African slave port and the "Door of No Return," which, in the museum, leads you onto the upper deck of a slave ship. You can then descend to the lower level where they've tried to capture the conditions below deck. It's quite affecting. In any case, when, a few weeks later, I started Homegoing and the book's events turned up at Cape Coast Castle in Ghana, this all felt very fresh in my memory -- both my recent visit to the Wright, but also my long ago visit to Senegal.
The exhibit on slavery at Monticello, Paradox of Liberty, does a pretty incredible job of centering the experience of the enslaved people in the history of Monticello. It focuses pretty heavily on the Hemings family, mainly because theirs is the most well-documented, but it actually features the family trees and histories of four enslaved families from Monticello. I took a picture of the Hemings family tree. What struck me was that family trees from the era of slavery are largely matrilineal. Between a culture of rape, the routine break-up of families, and an intentional or benign lack of record-keeping, often only mothers are known. This stands out particularly in the context of the ruling class's patriarchal structure. Homegoing also starts with a family tree that centers the mother. The book follows two branches of a family; one that remains in Africa and one that is enslaved and brought to the U.S. While there is hardship on both sides of the ocean, the family that remained in Ghana can trace their history back through the generations to the mother at the top of the family tree. Meanwhile, from the very beginning, the branch of the family that is enslaved is in a continuous state of disconnection and loss. Through the subsequent generations in the book, unknown or absent parents are a recurring theme. It was sometimes heartbreaking as a reader to know the history of each character, when often they didn't know it themselves.
This disconnect is one of the legacies of slavery, and it's one reason the work of the NMAAHC, the Wright, and similar institutions is so important. The family trees in the exhibit on slavery at Monticello were constructed through oral histories. The artifacts in the exhibit are mostly the result of archaeological excavation, because while the Jefferson family's heirlooms have been meticulously preserved over the generations, the possessions of the enslaved people at Monticello were not thought to be historically significant until recently. One of the wonderful things about the NMAAHC is the several recording booths that are scattered throughout the museum where people can record their own family's history. These institutions are trying to recreate the connections that were forcibly severed. The most powerful thing I saw at the Wright was this statue of Thomas Jefferson in front of a wall that lists all ~600 people he owned. For most, only a first name is known. For a handful, no name is known, but they are still listed. The museum can't tell all their stories, but to say their names is a start.