I can't remember where I first heard about
An African in Greenland, but I believe I picked up a copy because it was the first book I'd heard of by a Togolese author. It does feel a bit ironic to count this book for Togo in my world books reading project (I already have
Greenland covered!), but the book does start out in Togo. The first quarter of the book documents Kpomassie's long (physically and temporally) and circuitous route to get from Togo to Greenland. Honestly, I could have read even more on this period: from his village in Togo, when he was just 16 years old, Kpomassie traveled first to Ivory Coast where he stays with an aunt, then to Ghana where he gets an embassy job and teaches himself English, then to Senegal where he gets another embassy job, then to Mauritania from where he intends to leave, only to find ships don't travel from there anymore, so he must return back to Senegal in order to get a ship to France. After arriving in Marseille, he travels to Paris where he spends a couple of years before traveling to Germany and on to Copenhagen, the point of departure for ships to Greenland. Everywhere he went, Kpomassie had to pause and work for months or even years to save up enough money to fund the next stage of his travels. At the same time, he encountered incredible generosity, including one benefactor in Paris whom he began to think of as a second father. It's astonishing that he undertook this adventure at such a young age and against such challenges, though maybe it was only his youth that made it fathomable.
On arriving in Greenland, Kpomassie was completely reliant on the generosity of others – he was never able to legally work there – and many of the people who helped him get by there were living in poverty themselves. They shared their homes, their limited food, their abundant coffee and booze, and sometimes even their beds with him. He traveled up the west coast from south to north over a period of a year and 3 months, ending up in Upernavik, which is apparently the south of the north of Greenland.
One gathers that Kpomassie became something of a celebrity while in
Greenland as the first African ever to visit the island. Early on, he is
a novelty, but as time passes he finds that people have begun to expect
his arrival. They have heard about him from friends or family in other
villages where he stopped, and when he arrives in Upernavik, at the
house where he stops to seek shelter the owner says he heard about him
on the radio.
I must say, after reading this, Greenland sounds utterly unappealing. It's not just because of the food, though that is a big part of it. Food is a major theme of the book because of the general scarcity of it, and because one must constantly find ways to feed oneself through the long, dark winter. Kpomassie's diet on his travels seemed to consist primarily of seal meat, blubber, and organs, eaten raw a lot more often than you'd expect, with occasional fish or reindeer meat. There are also huge quantities of coffee, and pervasive binge drinking. (This last I remember well from Last Night in Nuuk.)
I also don't think I would manage well in either the polar summer or the polar winter. I never realized before reading this book just how long the sunless days and full sun days lasted. Even today, 6 weeks after the solstice, Upernavik still gets 24 hours of daylight. In about a week, on August 8, the village will get just over an hour of twilight. Then in late September, it will get 2 hours of night and from there the nights will just get longer until November 13, at which point there will be no sun for many months. Living in a place where there is a distinct difference between winter and summer daylight hours, I somehow only noticed a couple years ago that the day to day change happened more quickly around the equinoxes and more slowly at the solstices. Of course, at the poles, this is more pronounced.
Kpomassie, however, loved Greenland. The story, and his telling of it, is really remarkable. He heard of this far off place from a book he found in Togo at age 16, fell in love with it at a distance, and spent 8 years working and traveling with the continuous goal of getting there. At the end of the book, he says he could imagine himself staying there forever, but he feels obliged to leave to get news of his family and share his experiences with the world. After finishing the book, I learned that Kpomassie is evidently still alive at age 85 or so, and that he moved back to Greenland in 2022 to live out his final years.