On arriving in Greenland, Kpomassie was completely reliant on the generosity of others – he was never able to legally work there – and many of the people who helped him get by there were living in poverty themselves. They shared their homes, their limited food, their abundant coffee and booze, and sometimes even their beds with him. He traveled up the west coast from south to north over a period of a year and 3 months, ending up in Upernavik, which is apparently the south of the north of Greenland.
One gathers that Kpomassie became something of a celebrity while in Greenland as the first African ever to visit the island. Early on, he is a novelty, but as time passes he finds that people have begun to expect his arrival. They have heard about him from friends or family in other villages where he stopped, and when he arrives in Upernavik, at the house where he stops to seek shelter the owner says he heard about him on the radio.
I must say, after reading this, Greenland sounds utterly unappealing. It's not just because of the food, though that is a big part of it. Food is a major theme of the book because of the general scarcity of it, and because one must constantly find ways to feed oneself through the long, dark winter. Kpomassie's diet on his travels seemed to consist primarily of seal meat, blubber, and organs, eaten raw a lot more often than you'd expect, with occasional fish or reindeer meat. There are also huge quantities of coffee, and pervasive binge drinking. (This last I remember well from Last Night in Nuuk.)
I also don't think I would manage well in either the polar summer or the polar winter. I never realized before reading this book just how long the sunless days and full sun days lasted. Even today, 6 weeks after the solstice, Upernavik still gets 24 hours of daylight. In about a week, on August 8, the village will get just over an hour of twilight. Then in late September, it will get 2 hours of night and from there the nights will just get longer until November 13, at which point there will be no sun for many months. Living in a place where there is a distinct difference between winter and summer daylight hours, I somehow only noticed a couple years ago that the day to day change happened more quickly around the equinoxes and more slowly at the solstices. Of course, at the poles, this is more pronounced.
Kpomassie, however, loved Greenland. The story, and his telling of it, is really remarkable. He heard of this far off place from a book he found in Togo at age 16, fell in love with it at a distance, and spent 8 years working and traveling with the continuous goal of getting there. At the end of the book, he says he could imagine himself staying there forever, but he feels obliged to leave to get news of his family and share his experiences with the world. After finishing the book, I learned that Kpomassie is evidently still alive at age 85 or so, and that he moved back to Greenland in 2022 to live out his final years.














